Adapalene for anti-ageing

Tuesday, June 11, 2024

There is a lot of skincare advice out there, especially on social media.

But, what do we actually need to target those fine lines? What is the most practical and affordable way to focus on the parts of skincare that may matter to us?

This article will help you to understand the science behind one of the solutions. Read on to find out how to get clearer and younger-looking skin.

What is adapalene?

Adapalene is a type of retinoid.

Retinoids, also known as retinoic acid or retinol, are often used in skincare products. They can improve skin brightness and texture, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

Retinoids are a form of vitamin A, and in the UK, prescription-strength retinoids are usually used to treat acne.

Adapalene is the active ingredient found in Differin Gel and Differin Cream (1).

In the UK, Adapalene is only available on prescription. It has been used to treat acne in the UK for many years (6).

Because of how adapalene works on acne, studies show that it can also:

Soften fine lines
Restore dermal collagen
Improve the tightness of sagging skin (7)

Differin Gel and Differin Cream are both available over the counter in the USA. Here in the UK, you need a prescription.

Which is better, Differin cream or gel?

Differin Gel dries quicker, absorbs faster, and is lighter-weight. If you have oilier skin, you may prefer it. Differin Cream is less drying and irritating. This may be better if your skin is more sensitive or dry (2).

Both have the same amount of adapalene, so are equally effective for both skin types. As a general rule, if you feel your skin is quite prone to oiliness and acne, you may prefer the gel. If your skin tends to be dry and sensitive, you may find the cream more soothing to use.

How does adapalene work for anti-ageing?

Adapalene works on acne by promoting cell turnover (how quickly old cells die and new ones are formed).

Adapalene also helps acne by reducing inflammation and redness. As old skin cells die and redness is reduced, fresh new cells grow underneath. This reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation (dark spots on the skin).

New cell growth also means that deeper layers of skin thicken. The thickening helps in areas of the skin where wrinkles can otherwise start to appear (3).

This product is not “snake oil.” It does not "hide" acne scars or "freeze" wrinkles by using colour or filler ingredients. It encourages your own skin to renew more quickly, and the main active ingredient is adapalene itself (4).

Adapalene is a milder form of a retinoid, milder than tretinoin for example, but Differin gel and cream are still prescription-strength products.

The benefit of using milder retinoids is that they are less likely to irritate your skin, especially when you are new to using them.

If you are new to using retinoids, we recommend this product is not applied on or near:

the corners of your mouth
eye area
around your nostrils

Is adapalene good for anti-ageing?

Some studies show that retinoids help to increase collagen and skin layer thickening (5). Adapalene (Differin) is a type of retinoid with similar effects.

Adapalene also tends to be more stable to light and oxygen. This means it does not lose its effectiveness once applied, even if exposed to light and air (1).

I've got acne as well. Can I use adapalene for anti-ageing and acne?

We recommend treating existing acne first. After a few months, you can switch to adapalene once your acne is under control.

In fact, Differin gel or cream should help stop the acne from coming back.

A treatment for acne that also contains adapalene is Epiduo or see our breakdown of all acne treatments.

Are there any side effects?

If you are new to retinoids, or you have dry or sensitive skin, they can cause:

skin burning
dryness
irritation
itching
increased chance of sunburn

You should not apply retinoids on or near the eye area, corners of your mouth or around the nostrils (4).

The good news is that adapalene, as a more gentle retinoid, is less likely to cause prolonged skin reactions. However, it should still not be applied to or near these sensitive areas.

You may still experience some skin irritation and redness initially as it begins to promote skin cell turnover (known as "skin purging"). Usually, this settles down within a few weeks, after which you should start to see a newer and fresher layer of skin showing through.

How long does adapalene take to work for anti-ageing?

Adapalene should be applied once a day (morning or night). You can expect to notice results anywhere from 3-12 months of regular use. You may notice some skin redness and irritation at first which should settle down after a few weeks.

Results can vary, but you can expect to notice improved skin texture and reduced fine lines.

Oxford Online Pharmacy can prescribe and supply Differin cream or gel in a larger 45g tube. This should last about 3 months, making the 45g tube much better value.

Can I get adapalene for anti-ageing on the NHS?

Unfortunately, no. In the UK, adapalene is a prescription-only medicine licensed for use in mild to moderate acne only. The NHS does not prescribe this medicine for its anti-ageing effects.

Using adapalene for anti-ageing is "off-license". This is because the anti-ageing effects are not what the product was originally designed for.

Adapalene must be prescribed privately. Complete a free online consultation to find out if adapalene can be prescribed for you.